The shape of the viewfinder frame (and LCD
screen) has a huge influence on the form that
the image takes. Despite the ease of cropping it
later, there exists a powerful intuitive pressure
at the time of shooting to compose right up to
the edges of the frame. Indeed, it takes years of
experience to ignore those parts of an image that
are not being used, and some photographers
never get used to this.
Most photography is composed to a few
rigidly defined formats (aspect ratios), unlike
in other graphic arts. Until digital photography,
by far the most common format was 3:2—that
of the standard 35mm camera, measuring
36x24mm—but now that the physical width
of film is no longer a constraint, the majority
of low- and middle-end cameras have adopted
the less elongated, more “natural” 4:3 format that
fits more comfortably on printing papers and
monitor displays. The question of which aspect
ratios are perceived as the most comfortable
is a study in its own right, but in principle,
there seems to be a tendency toward longer
horizontally (the increasing popularity of widescreen
and letterbox formats for television), but
less elongated for vertically composed images.
THE 3:2 FRAME
This is the classic 35mm frame, which has been
transferred seamlessly to digital SLRs, creating
in the process a sort of class distinction between
professional and serious amateur photographers
on the one hand, and everyone else on the other.
The reason for these proportions is a matter
of historical accident; there are no compelling
aesthetic reasons why it should be so. Indeed,
more “natural” proportions would be less
elongated, as evidenced by the bulk of the ways in
which images are displayed—painting canvases,
computer monitors, photographic printing paper,
book and magazine formats, and so on. Part of
the historical reason was that 35mm film was
long considered too small for good enlargements,
and the elongated shape gave more area.
Nevertheless, its popularity demonstrates how
easily our sense of intuitive composition adapts.
Overwhelmingly, this format is shot
horizontally, and there are three reasons for this.
The first is pure ergonomics. It is difficult to
design a camera used at eye level so that it is just as
easy to photograph vertically as horizontally, and
few manufacturers have even bothered. SLRs are
made to be used for horizontal pictures. Turning
them on their side is just not as comfortable, and
most photographers tend to avoid it. The second
reason is more fundamental. Our binocular
vision means that we see horizontally. There is no
frame as such, as human vision involves paying
attention to local detail and scanning a scene
rapidly, rather than taking in a sharp overall view
all at once.
The net result is that a horizontal frame
is natural and unremarkable. It influences the
composition of an image, but not in an insistent,
outstanding way. It conforms to the horizon,
and so to most overall landscapes and general
views. The horizontal component to the frame
encourages a horizontal arrangement of elements,
naturally enough. It is marginally more natural to
place an image lower in the frame than higher—
this tends to enhance the sensation of stability—
but in any particular photograph there are likely
to be many other influences. Placing a subject
or horizon high in the frame produces a slight
downward-looking, head-lowered sensation,
which can have mildly negative associations.
For naturally vertical subjects, however, the
elongation of a 2:3 frame is an advantage, and the
human figure, standing, is the most commonly
found vertical subject—a fortunate coincidence,
as in most other respects the 2:3 proportions are
rarely completely satisfactory.
Human vision
Our natural view of the world is in
the form of a vague-edged, horizontal oval, and
a standard horizontal film frame is a reasonable
approximation. The final reason is that 3:2
proportions are often perceptually too elongated
to work comfortably in portrait composition.
4:3 AND SIMILAR FRAMES
Traditionally, and once again with digital
photography and on-screen presentations, these
“fatter” frames are the most “natural” image
formats. In other words, they are the least insistent
and most accommodating to the eye. In the days
when there was a rich variety of large-format film,
formats included 5×4-inch, 10×8-inch, 14×11-
inch, and 8½×6½-inch. There is now a reduced
choice, but the proportions all work in much the
same way, and equally for rollfilm formats, digital
backs, and lower-end digital cameras.
In terms of composition, the frame dynamics
impose less on the image, because there is less of
a dominant direction than with 3:2. At the same
time, that there is a distinction between height
and width is important in helping the eye settle
into the view, with the understanding that the
view is horizontal or vertical. Compare this with
the difficulties of a square format, which often
suffers from lack of direction. As noted opposite,
these proportions are very comfortable for most
vertically composed images.
SQUARE
While all other photographic frames are
rectangular, with varying proportions, one is
fixed: the square. A few film cameras have this
unusual format—unusual in that very few images
lend themselves well to square composition. In
general, it is the most difficult format to work
with, and most design strategies for a square
frame are concerned with escaping the tyranny
of its perfect equilibrium.
We ought to look a little more closely at
why most subjects are ill-suited to a square
arrangement. In part, this has to do with the axis
of the subject. Few shapes are so compact that
they have no alignment. Most things are longer
in one direction than in another, and it is natural
to align the main axis of an image with the longer
sides of a rectangular picture frame. Hence, most
broad landscape views are generally handled as
horizontal pictures, and most standing figures
as verticals.
The square, however, has absolutely no bias.
Its sides are in perfect 1:1 proportions, and its
influence is a very precise and stable division
of space. Here lies the second reason for the
unsympathetic nature of square proportions: they
impose a formal rigidity on the image. It is hard
to escape the feeling of geometry when working
with a square frame, and the symmetry of the
sides and corners keeps reminding the eye of
the center.
Occasionally a precise symmetrical image is
interesting; it makes a change from the normally
imprecise design of most photographs. However,
a few such images quickly become a surfeit. It
is fairly normal for photographers who work
consistently with a square-format camera to
imagine a vertical or horizontal direction to the
picture, and to crop the resulting image later.
Practically, this means composing fairly loosely in
the viewfinder, to allow a certain amount of free
space either at the sides or at the top and bottom.
Sunday, December 21, 2008
FRAME DYNAMICS
ô€€´he setting for the image is the picture frame.
In photography, the format of this frame
is fixed at the time of shooting, although it is
always possible later to adjust the shape of the
frame to the picture you have taken. Nevertheless,
whatever opportunities exist for later changes
(see pages 58-61), do not underestimate the
influence of the viewfinder on composition.
Most cameras offer a view of the world as a
bright rectangle surrounded by blackness, and
the presence of the frame is usually strongly felt.
Even though experience may help you to ignore
the dimensions of the viewfinder frame in order
to shoot to a different format, intuition will work
against this, encouraging you to make a design
that feels satisfying at the time of shooting.
The most common picture area is the one
shown at the top of this page: that of a horizontal
frame in the proportions 3:2. Professionally, this is
the most widely used camera format, and holding
it horizontally is the easiest method. As an empty
frame it has certain dynamic influences, as the
diagram shows, although these tend to be felt
only in very minimal and delicately toned images.
More often, the dynamics of lines, shapes, and
colors in the photograph take over completely.
Depending on the subject and on the
treatment the photographer chooses, the
edges of the frame can have a strong or weak
influence on the image. The examples shown
here are all ones in which the horizontal and
vertical borders, and the corners, contribute
strongly to the design of the photographs.
They have been used as references for diagonal
lines within the pictures, and the angles that
have been created are important features.
What these photographs demonstrate is that
the frame can be made to interact strongly with
the lines of the image, but that this depends on
the photographer’s intention. If you choose to
shoot more loosely, in a casual snapshot fashion,
the frame will not seem so important.
In photography, the format of this frame
is fixed at the time of shooting, although it is
always possible later to adjust the shape of the
frame to the picture you have taken. Nevertheless,
whatever opportunities exist for later changes
(see pages 58-61), do not underestimate the
influence of the viewfinder on composition.
Most cameras offer a view of the world as a
bright rectangle surrounded by blackness, and
the presence of the frame is usually strongly felt.
Even though experience may help you to ignore
the dimensions of the viewfinder frame in order
to shoot to a different format, intuition will work
against this, encouraging you to make a design
that feels satisfying at the time of shooting.
The most common picture area is the one
shown at the top of this page: that of a horizontal
frame in the proportions 3:2. Professionally, this is
the most widely used camera format, and holding
it horizontally is the easiest method. As an empty
frame it has certain dynamic influences, as the
diagram shows, although these tend to be felt
only in very minimal and delicately toned images.
More often, the dynamics of lines, shapes, and
colors in the photograph take over completely.
Depending on the subject and on the
treatment the photographer chooses, the
edges of the frame can have a strong or weak
influence on the image. The examples shown
here are all ones in which the horizontal and
vertical borders, and the corners, contribute
strongly to the design of the photographs.
They have been used as references for diagonal
lines within the pictures, and the angles that
have been created are important features.
What these photographs demonstrate is that
the frame can be made to interact strongly with
the lines of the image, but that this depends on
the photographer’s intention. If you choose to
shoot more loosely, in a casual snapshot fashion,
the frame will not seem so important.
INTRODUCTION
ô€€°hilosophical, lyrical, sometimes obscure
commentaries on how photographs are made
and what they mean are thick on the ground,
usually by non-photographers. Not that there
is anything at all wrong with the perceptive
outsider’s view; indeed, the distance of this kind
of objectivity brings new, valuable insights.
Roland Barthes even held his non-understanding
of photographic processes (“I could not join the
troupe of those…who deal with Photographyaccording-
to-the-Photographer”) as an advantage
in investigating the subject (“I resolved to start
my inquiry with no more than a few photographs,
the ones I was sure existed for me. Nothing to do
with a corpus...”).
This book, however, is intended to be
different, to explore the actual process of taking
photographs. I think I’d like to call it an insider’s
view, though that smacks of hubris, because I’m
drawing on the experience of photographers,
myself included, at the time of shooting. A
great deal goes on in the process of making an
exposure that is not at all obvious to someone
else seeing the result later. This will never prevent
art critics and historians from supplying their
own interpretations, which may be extremely
interesting but not necessarily have anything to
do with the circumstances and intentions of the
photographer. What I will attempt to do here is to
show how photographers compose their images,
according to their intentions, moods, and abilities,
and how the many skills of organizing an image
in the viewfinder can be improved and shared.
The important decisions in photography,
digital or otherwise, are those concerned with
the image itself: the reasons for taking it, and
the way it looks. The technology, of course, is
vital, but the best it can do is to help realize ideas
and perception. Photographers have always had
a complex and shifting relationship with their
equipment. In part there is the fascination with
the new, with gadgets, with bright, shiny toys.
At the same time there is, at least among those
who are reasonably self-confident, a belief that
their innate ability overrides the mere mechanics
of cameras. We need the equipment and yet are
cautious, sometimes even dismissive about it.
One of the things that is clearly needed for
successful photography is a proper balance in this
conflict. Nevertheless, there have been very few
attempts in publishing to deal comprehensively
with composition in photography, as opposed to
the technical issues. This is a rich and demanding
subject, too often trivialized even when not
ignored outright. Most people using a camera
for the first time try to master the controls but
ignore the ideas. They photograph intuitively,
liking or disliking what they see without stopping
to think why, and framing the view in the
same way. Anyone who does it well is a natural
photographer. But knowing in advance why some
compositions or certain combinations of colors
seem to work better than others, better equips
any photographer.
One important reason why intuitive rather
than informed photography is so common is
that shooting is such an easy, immediate process.
Whatever the level of thought and planning
that goes into a photograph, from none to
considerable, the image is created in an instant,
as soon as the shutter release is pressed. This
means that a picture can always be taken casually
and without thought, and because it can, it often
is. Johannes Itten, the great Bauhaus teacher in
Germany in the 1920s, talking about color in art,
told his students: “If you, unknowing, are able to
create masterpieces in color, then unknowledge
is your way. But if you are unable to create
masterpieces in color out of your unknowledge,
then you ought to look for knowledge.” This
applies to art in general, including photography.
In shooting, you can rely on natural ability or on
a good knowledge of the principles of design. In
other graphic arts, design is taught as a matter
of course. In photography it has received less
attention than it deserves, and here I set out to
redress some of this lack.
A relatively new element is the rapid shift
from film-based photography to digital, and
this, at least in my opinion, has the potential
to revitalize design. Because so much of the
image workflow between shooting and printing
is now placed on the computer in the hands of
the photographer, most of us now spend much
more time looking at and doing things to images.
This alone encourages more study, more analysis
of images and their qualities. Moreover, digital
post-production, with all its many possible
adjustments of brightness, contrast, and color,
restores to photographers the control over the
final image that was inherent in black-and-white
film photography but extremely difficult in color.
This comprehensive control inevitably affects
composition, and the simple fact that so much
can be done with an image in post-production
increases the need to consider the image and its
possibilities ever more carefully.
commentaries on how photographs are made
and what they mean are thick on the ground,
usually by non-photographers. Not that there
is anything at all wrong with the perceptive
outsider’s view; indeed, the distance of this kind
of objectivity brings new, valuable insights.
Roland Barthes even held his non-understanding
of photographic processes (“I could not join the
troupe of those…who deal with Photographyaccording-
to-the-Photographer”) as an advantage
in investigating the subject (“I resolved to start
my inquiry with no more than a few photographs,
the ones I was sure existed for me. Nothing to do
with a corpus...”).
This book, however, is intended to be
different, to explore the actual process of taking
photographs. I think I’d like to call it an insider’s
view, though that smacks of hubris, because I’m
drawing on the experience of photographers,
myself included, at the time of shooting. A
great deal goes on in the process of making an
exposure that is not at all obvious to someone
else seeing the result later. This will never prevent
art critics and historians from supplying their
own interpretations, which may be extremely
interesting but not necessarily have anything to
do with the circumstances and intentions of the
photographer. What I will attempt to do here is to
show how photographers compose their images,
according to their intentions, moods, and abilities,
and how the many skills of organizing an image
in the viewfinder can be improved and shared.
The important decisions in photography,
digital or otherwise, are those concerned with
the image itself: the reasons for taking it, and
the way it looks. The technology, of course, is
vital, but the best it can do is to help realize ideas
and perception. Photographers have always had
a complex and shifting relationship with their
equipment. In part there is the fascination with
the new, with gadgets, with bright, shiny toys.
At the same time there is, at least among those
who are reasonably self-confident, a belief that
their innate ability overrides the mere mechanics
of cameras. We need the equipment and yet are
cautious, sometimes even dismissive about it.
One of the things that is clearly needed for
successful photography is a proper balance in this
conflict. Nevertheless, there have been very few
attempts in publishing to deal comprehensively
with composition in photography, as opposed to
the technical issues. This is a rich and demanding
subject, too often trivialized even when not
ignored outright. Most people using a camera
for the first time try to master the controls but
ignore the ideas. They photograph intuitively,
liking or disliking what they see without stopping
to think why, and framing the view in the
same way. Anyone who does it well is a natural
photographer. But knowing in advance why some
compositions or certain combinations of colors
seem to work better than others, better equips
any photographer.
One important reason why intuitive rather
than informed photography is so common is
that shooting is such an easy, immediate process.
Whatever the level of thought and planning
that goes into a photograph, from none to
considerable, the image is created in an instant,
as soon as the shutter release is pressed. This
means that a picture can always be taken casually
and without thought, and because it can, it often
is. Johannes Itten, the great Bauhaus teacher in
Germany in the 1920s, talking about color in art,
told his students: “If you, unknowing, are able to
create masterpieces in color, then unknowledge
is your way. But if you are unable to create
masterpieces in color out of your unknowledge,
then you ought to look for knowledge.” This
applies to art in general, including photography.
In shooting, you can rely on natural ability or on
a good knowledge of the principles of design. In
other graphic arts, design is taught as a matter
of course. In photography it has received less
attention than it deserves, and here I set out to
redress some of this lack.
A relatively new element is the rapid shift
from film-based photography to digital, and
this, at least in my opinion, has the potential
to revitalize design. Because so much of the
image workflow between shooting and printing
is now placed on the computer in the hands of
the photographer, most of us now spend much
more time looking at and doing things to images.
This alone encourages more study, more analysis
of images and their qualities. Moreover, digital
post-production, with all its many possible
adjustments of brightness, contrast, and color,
restores to photographers the control over the
final image that was inherent in black-and-white
film photography but extremely difficult in color.
This comprehensive control inevitably affects
composition, and the simple fact that so much
can be done with an image in post-production
increases the need to consider the image and its
possibilities ever more carefully.
Wednesday, June 18, 2008
Wednesday, June 11, 2008
Monday, June 9, 2008
Smashing Texture
Thursday, April 17, 2008
Shoot Like a Pro! Digital Photography Techniques by Julie Adair King Free Download
Shoot Like a Pro!
DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY TECHNIQUES
Julie Adair King
DOWNLOAD HERE
Through a series of tutorial projects, author Julie Adair King shows readers how to light shots, choose the right camera settings, use camera accessories and photographic software, and much more. You’ll learn step-by-step to use your existing digital camera for professional results. Set up a home studio, create a 360-degree panoramic image, learn low light and action photography, work in black and white, and adopt many other professional techniques.
From the Back Cover
Special color section: 35 secrets the pros know!
Take your digital photography to the next level with help from this wonderfully written guidebook. Best-selling author Julie Adair King shows you the secrets that professional photographers use to capture memorable portraits, spectacular nature and travel images, and eye-catching product shots. You'll find out how to take full advantage of your digital camera's features, from exposure controls to resolution options, and learn techniques that will help you get a perfect picture every time--even in difficult lighting and other challenging situations!
Discover the best camera settings to use for different photographic projects
Gain control over exposure, focus, color, and contrast with traditional filters and digital tools
Find out how to take better close-ups, panoramic images, nighttime pictures, and action shots
Improve your pictures with easy lighting techniques
Learn the secrets to shooting glass, metal, and other reflective subjects
Build a home or office studio using affordable alternatives to high-priced professional equipment
Save money by taking portraits and product shots yourself instead of hiring a professional photographer
Learn to identify beautiful compositions in everyday scenes
Make great, long-lasting prints and prepare pictures for a Web page or an online album
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Very good tips and tricks to know when shooting ....
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Publisher: McGraw-Hill Osborne Media
ISBN-10: 0072229497
ISBN-13: 978-0072229493
Year: July 28, 2003
Pages: 256
Lang: English
Format: PDF
Size: 9.2 Mb
More details HERE
DOWNLOAD HERE
DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY TECHNIQUES
Julie Adair King
DOWNLOAD HERE
Through a series of tutorial projects, author Julie Adair King shows readers how to light shots, choose the right camera settings, use camera accessories and photographic software, and much more. You’ll learn step-by-step to use your existing digital camera for professional results. Set up a home studio, create a 360-degree panoramic image, learn low light and action photography, work in black and white, and adopt many other professional techniques.
From the Back Cover
Special color section: 35 secrets the pros know!
Take your digital photography to the next level with help from this wonderfully written guidebook. Best-selling author Julie Adair King shows you the secrets that professional photographers use to capture memorable portraits, spectacular nature and travel images, and eye-catching product shots. You'll find out how to take full advantage of your digital camera's features, from exposure controls to resolution options, and learn techniques that will help you get a perfect picture every time--even in difficult lighting and other challenging situations!
Discover the best camera settings to use for different photographic projects
Gain control over exposure, focus, color, and contrast with traditional filters and digital tools
Find out how to take better close-ups, panoramic images, nighttime pictures, and action shots
Improve your pictures with easy lighting techniques
Learn the secrets to shooting glass, metal, and other reflective subjects
Build a home or office studio using affordable alternatives to high-priced professional equipment
Save money by taking portraits and product shots yourself instead of hiring a professional photographer
Learn to identify beautiful compositions in everyday scenes
Make great, long-lasting prints and prepare pictures for a Web page or an online album
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Very good tips and tricks to know when shooting ....
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Publisher: McGraw-Hill Osborne Media
ISBN-10: 0072229497
ISBN-13: 978-0072229493
Year: July 28, 2003
Pages: 256
Lang: English
Format: PDF
Size: 9.2 Mb
More details HERE
DOWNLOAD HERE
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